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Wakebait Fishing – The Time is Now by Steve Pagliughi Swimbaiters have a large selection of swimbaits to choose from in today's swimbait market. Some swimbaits have proven themselves through time by consistently catching fish and having excellent customer service support. Other swimbaits have showed promise but haven't stood the test of time and other fly-by- night swimbaits have failed miserably both in catches and customer service support. Regardless of manufacturer and style, swimbaits generally fall into one of three categories (surface, subsurface, bottom) based on the portion of the water column a bait is designed to be fished. Wakebaits are designed to be fished on the surface and are arguably the most enjoyable, and probably easiest, style of swimbait to fish. By definition a wakebait is a surface bait usually having a diving lip (although many don't) designed to be slowly retrieved on the surface such that a wake is created. This article will focus on the basics of fishing wakebaits including bait selection and on-water strategies. I want to stress that the information below is by no means the only way to fish wakebaits or the only logic that should be used when deciding which baits to use under certain conditions. However, the information does provide a strong foundation that can and should be modified and built upon. Time of Year Wakebaits work year-round. However, at least for me and the way I fish, post-spawn through fall is the best time to fish these baits. In winter, I'm usually throwing large plastic baits in deep water. But, if unseasonably warm weather arrives for a few days, or a nasty storm rolls in, Ill break out wakebaits to see if I can get something going. As winter transitions into early spring, Ill start checking the wakebait bite more frequently. The bite picks up right about the time spawning begins. The wakebait bite gets wide open once the first wave of spawners vacate shallow water and start thinking about recuperating. The bite continues to be strong throughout the summer and into fall. Buying the Right Wakebait We could drive ourselves crazy, and cause our bank accounts to plummet, if we tried to fish every wakebait out there. I don't have the time or money to field test each available bait, so here's how I approach which baits I choose to fish. I'm skeptical about every new swimbait that hits the market. I will not buy a new bait until 1) its proven through time it can consistently catch fish, 2) its shown it will not break under normal fishing conditions, and 3) the manufacturer has shown that if something does break they will be reasonable and timely in fixing the problem. I rely on the internet and the group of friends I regularly fish with to figure out which baits meet these criteria. The internet is an excellent resource for perusing reviews of available swimbaits. Swimbaitnation.com, tackletour.com, and calfishing.com are three sites that provide us all with a foundation of good, usually unbiased, information. However, the internet can only get us so far. It's kind of like trying to buy pants or shoes over the internet; it's usually best to try those things on in person before you buy them. This is where your group of friends comes into play. I'm lucky to have friends that just have to buy everything, so every time on the water is like spending a day in the best swimbait shop in the world that has a testing tank! This is where I can hold a bait, I can cast it, I can watch the action, I can look the way it's built and I can make the final decision if it's a bait that I absolutely have to have. In many instances I have been convinced a bait would not fit in with my style only to find that once I actually held the bait and casted it there was no doubt I needed to buy one. So with that said, which baits are best? Well, based on the three criteria I've provided above, I primarily fish 316 Lure Company baits. MS Slammers will always be in my boat, and the Wood Tail is slowly making its way into my routine (this bait is made by Joe Adams from the New England area and I'm not certain that he actually sells these baits at this time, or ever will). 316 currently offers a wide selection of wakebait style swimbaits in every size you need. The Baby Wake is the smallest of the bunch (6” 2.1oz), has a tight, fast wiggle, and can be fished a little faster on the surface then the other 316 wakebaits. The Wake Jr. is the mid-class sized bait (7.5” 3.1oz) that has the perfect combination of side-to-side movement and noise production. The Real Deal is an interesting bait (8” 3.6 oz) and it does not have a diving lip. It's a fairly large, wide bait that can be worked any way imaginable and its retrieve potential is only limited by the fisherman who fishes it. Surprisingly, the Real Deal seems to work best for me as a subtle twitch bait when the wind is light to moderate. However, I'm still learning this bait and I'm sure Ill find many situations and retrieves where is shines. One of my favorite retrieves with the Real Deal is to lower my rod tip and give short but hard jerks in a cadence that causes the bait to walk the dog. The kicker is that when you do it just right the head of the bait will come out of the water each time it changes direction and when it does the mouth will open up. The retrieve closely mimics a trout swimming on the surface rolling on insects. The Armageddon and the Wake Bait (both approximately 10” and 6.9 oz) are large baits. They both have incredible action, excellent drawing potential and enough noise to fish in the windiest conditions. Consider yourself lucky if you have one of these baits because they have been discontinued. However, Mickey Ellis is in the process of engineering fresh, cutting edge designs that will replace both baits. For those of you east of the Rockies , Mickey takes his Baby Bass (similar in size to the Wake Jr.) and makes an absolutely sick version of a yellow perch. The yellow perch has the finest paint job and realistic representation of any swimbait I've seen. They really are a work of art. Cost to Benefit Ratio Cost is definitely a factor for the swimbaiter, especially those that are new to it. Many people who are new to swimbaiting fall into a trap, and the trap is trying to save money. Most of the baits that are worth buying are relatively expensive. When I first started I made every mistake you can think of, and it cost me many fishless days and frustration. Looking back on it I get fairly upset because I didn't take the advice of those that have much more experience than me. I bought a bunch of "cheap" baits that either fell apart or didn't catch fish. Those baits were a waste of my time and money and I've either thrown them all away or thrown them in a corner never to be fished again. Think of it this way. The learning curve with swimbaits can be steep because you typically don't get that many bites so you really aren't certain if you are fishing them the right way. It can drive you crazy because you start second guessing everything you are doing and you are struggling to acquire confidence. If you aren't getting feedback (bites) from the fish it's impossible to know if you are doing the right thing. Cheap swimbaits usually don't get very many bites. So when you are starting out its very important to buy baits that are proven fish catchers. That way you put yourself in the best position to get the most feedback (bites) and learn what you need to learn quickly, and build your confidence quickly. I've seen way too many people start out trying to save money. They buy cheap baits that don't catch fish and/or fall apart and they quickly deem swimbaiting a waste of time and money. They never gave themselves a chance. Here is another way of looking at it. You spend $100 for a quality hard topwater swimbait from a manufacturer that has proven they provide good customer service. You also buy $100 of senkos throughout the year. At the end of the year your swimbait has produced many more quality fish than the senkos (probably not as many fish but who cares because you are after bigger fish when swimbaiting). You no longer have the senkos, you used them all. But you still have the swimbait, its still producing and it will continue to produce for a long time. Plus, if it ever breaks during normal use (using a hammer to remove the bill doesn't count!) the company will fix it for you. In the long run buying the $100 swimbait is more cost effective and you are putting more big fish in the boat. Seems likes sound logic to me. My advice would be to save your money and buy a proven bait from a company that has excellent customer service. Save your money until you can buy the best swimbaits available, and this is more important when just starting out than at any other time. Give yourself the chance to unlock what swimbaiting has to offer. Fisherman that don't get past the first 6 months or so likely will never become accomplished swimbaiters. Once you figure things out and develop confidence you can experiment with other baits. Confidence comes largely by fishing the right baits. Equipment I throw my smallest swimbaits on a Daiwa Heartland 7'9” rod. Better rods are available but for the money you can't beat it ($65.99) and I don't feel I need a specialty rod with the smaller baits. The rod has lots of tip for surging fish and enough backbone to bury hooks. I don't recommend throwing baits as big or bigger than the Wake Jr. on this rod but its great for 7” MS Slammers. Plus, it's a great utility rod. You can throw Hammerheads and Basstrix type baits on this rod and in a pinch it works for flippin or cranking big crank baits. I have it paired with a Shimano Cardiff 400 which is also affordable ($109.99). For the mid-sized wakebaits, like the Wake Jr., I use a G-Loomis BBR965C ($265) paired with a Shimano Calcutta 400 ($219.99). The rod is very light, has the perfect combination of tip and backbone and just feels good in my hands. It can also be used for smaller swimbaits but be careful. Do not throw the heavier baits, including Hudds, on this rod. I did and it cost me a couple of toads. The next rod I'm going to buy for the mid-sized swimbaits will be the G-Loomis 955 swimbait rod ($240). I can't say enough about this line of rods, they are sweet. For the larger wakebaits I use either a G-Loomis 956 swimbait rod ($245) or the Shimano Crucial CRC-S711H ($149.99) and both are paired with Shimano Calcutta 400's. I use the Crucial when my retrieves require lots of arm movement on my behalf, such as walking the dog, because the Crucial has a much shorter rod butt making such retrieves easier and more comfortable. I use 20lb P-line CXX for small and medium sized baits and 30lb Berkeley Big Game for the larger baits. The 30 lb line seems to detract from the action of the smaller baits. When using 20 lb test (especially where there are big stripers) I try to maintain the sense of mind that I may have to get to the star drag quick (I have all my drags locked down) if I hook a large fish. Conditions and Bait Selection The key here is to match the bait with the conditions. Main factors when deciding which bait to choose includes size, water displacement and noise production. The one condition I look for when wakebait fishing is wind and typically the more the wind blows the better the fishing gets. I've seen posts on several forums where people have recommended fishing wakebaits in light to no wind but I can honestly say I've never experienced a good wakebait bite in such conditions. If you take just one thing from this article and apply it to your fishing its this: when the wind starts blowing its time to tie a wakebait on and start covering water . Many factors need to be considered when choosing the appropriate bait to use (like water color, type of fishery, etc.), but here are the basics. I choose the bait I use according to how hard the wind is blowing. In light winds I usually opt for a bait that displaces less water and has a softer clack. In strong winds the opposite applies. In light to moderate wind my first choice is always a Wake Jr. I prefer to fish this bait in a stiff wind, but it's a good starting point. If the wind is light and I'm not getting bit, or the fish are just following or slapping at the bait, Ill usually switch to a more subtle bait like a 7” MS Slammer. The small slammer has a smaller profile, produces a softer clacking sound and doesn't displace as much water. Ill also throw the Real Deal under light wind conditions and play with retrieves to see if I can get something going. The Wood Tail also seems to work well in this situation. As the wind increases I transition back to throwing baits having a stronger presence. If the Wake Jr. isn't getting bit in moderate winds I may try a 9” MS Slammer just to give them a different look and sound. I really start getting excited when the wind gets to the point where I'm struggling with boat control. Ill continue to throw the Wake Jr. but Ill also start throwing the biggest, loudest baits I have. One of the neatest things about fishing these baits in big waves is just as the bait crests a wave you will see groups of fish in the face of the wave just under your bait (we have all seen photos of surfers where there will be a shark in the face of the wave just behind the surfer), then your bait disappears in the trough and next thing you know water is flying everywhere! Fish on! There has only been one time that I can remember that the wind and waves were too strong to throw wakebaits, or any surface bait for that matter, and that was during the HBC-1 on Lake Casitas . The combination of wind and waves just overpowered my baits. One thing I want to touch on is water clarity. The drawing potential of wakebaits increases with increased clarity. But this doesn't mean I can't get the attention of a fish that's on bottom in 30 feet of muddy water, it just means that I should probably make adjustments. In this situation I would choose a big bait that creates the most disturbance (noise and water displacement). The visual aspect of the drawing potential is minimal in this situation and I am relying more on sound and vibration. Wakebaits should always be worked around shoreline cover (wood) and this is especially true in stained to muddy water. Learn the characteristics of each bait you use in terms of size, water displacement, and noise production then apply that knowledge to choose the right bait based on the conditions at hand. However, if standard logic isn't producing fish don't be afraid to experiment. You never know what you might stumble upon. If I had to choose one bait to fish for all conditions and all types of lakes it would be the Wake Jr. This bait bridges all gaps. It consistently catches all sizes of fish, all species of black bass and is effective in all types of waters. I originally bought a Wake Jr. thinking it would be an excellent bait for quality fish. And I was right. What surprised me was the number of trophy fish this bait puts in the boat including spotted bass and smallmouth bass. Retrieves In my opinion, wakebaits are the easiest type of swimbait to fish. The standard retrieve is nothing more than slow and steady. The key is that there will be one retrieve speed where you maximize the side to side motion and clacking sound while still keeping the bait on the surface. Each bait is different but it's easy to figure out. I've had lots of people tell me they can't catch fish on a wakebait and I really don't understand this. Casting out and reeling back in is pretty easy to do and that's about all it takes. The other type of retrieve I like is slow and steady interspersed with pauses and light twitches. The length of pause and number of twitches is dependant on the fish. Let them tell you what they want. Recently I was fishing a lake where the standard slow and steady retrieve usually works. But I wasn't getting bit. On one cast I noticed I had a nice follower and I instinctively stopped the bait. After about 5 seconds I softly twitched the bait and the fish ate it. Over the next hour this happened over and over, always within 10 feet of the boat. Well, the light bulb finally went off (I know, sometimes I'm a little slow), and I started pausing and twitching the second my bait hit the water. It worked and I started sticking fish well away from the boat. The point of the story is to experiment with retrieves until you find what works on a particular day. You can also walk the dog nicely with wakebaits, and if you have the patience you can dead stick them. The last standard retrieve is to crank them down just like you are fishing with a crankbait. I know lots of people that do this but it's not a retrieve that I frequently use. I usually catch fish doing this when I don't like my cast and am just trying to get my bait back in. For some reason this seems to happen on the Delta more than other waters, but it's a retrieve worth experimenting with on any lake. If you are getting bit but not hooking up, try a different retrieve or tie on a different bait. Sometimes that's all it takes. Location In general, I fish wakebaits on main lake structures including flats, points, ledges and humps. Occasionally I will work through shorelines or backs of coves quickly, but I definitely tend to stay on primary main lake structure. Regardless of the type of structure, I almost always cast from shallow water to deep water. Here's how I approach my target area. I shut the big engine down a long way away from the structure, keep the electronics off and quietly ease into the spot I want my boat. I cast in front of the boat while doing this to make sure I'm not missing an opportunity. Once I've “cleared” the path for my boat I position in shallow water and begin making very long casts into deep water. On the types of lakes I fish (steep and clear), this usually puts my bait over very deep water. And that's exactly where I want it. Wakebaits have excellent drawing potential (I have no idea how far up a fish will come to get a wakebait but my feeling is that it's a long ways) and they are deadly on suspended fish. In my opinion, it's the suspended fish that account for the bulk of my catch. It's tough to convince yourself there are good fish roaming around in the middle of nowhere over deep water but you just have to have faith that they are there. Action tends to come quickly so I don't spend much time on each spot. I keep my eyes open for followers. If they don't bite I return later and try again (if I KNOW good fish are on a spot I will fish that spot many times during the day). Sometimes the fish will bite on the shallow part of the structure, sometimes in deep water close to the breaklines and sometimes out in the middle of nowhere. Many times you will drag a fish out of deep water and they will crush the bait close to the boat. Once I've fan casted the area with maybe 10 casts I leave. It's very common to catch a fish or two quickly before the fish lose interest, then return a little while later and stick a few more. You can repeat this all day long. Without a doubt the fish lose interest quickly so make the most of the first few casts. When I'm fishing flats I tend to concentrate very near the breakline but occasionally throw shallow onto the flat and out over real deep water. If I get bit in those areas then I investigate. You just never know where they will be. If a flat has submerged vegetation from the shoreline to the breakline I make sure I efficiently fan cast the whole flat. A flat with a good breakline and submerged vegetation can be spectacular at night. Fish can be anywhere on any given day. But there's not enough time in one day to cover all options. By systematically and efficiently fishing main lake structures you increase the potential of encountering active, quality fish. Stick to the game plan and you will be successful. Modifications In general, I don't modify my baits much. 316 baits come standard with excellent hardware. However, the hardware does need to be replaced on an as needed basis (one fish can dull your treble hooks). I always use Owner Hyperwire split rings and Owner and Gamakatsu hooks for replacement purposes. Size depends on the size of bait and the size of fish I think I can catch. I tailor the hook size to the type of lake I'm fishing. For example, if I'm fishing Lake Shasta I will remove the standard hooks from my Wake Jr. and put either #1 or #2 round bend Gammies on. If I'm fishing Clear Lake or the Delta the stock hooks (or heavy duty Owners sized #1 through #2/0) get put back on. Sometimes I put different sized hooks on the front and rear. I do this because it helps keep the hooks from snagging on each other during the cast and retrieve, and because sometimes I feel that I increase my hook-up to bite ratio by offering two hook sizes. A Day on the Water Here's how I approach wakebait fishing during a typical day in June on a relatively clear highland type reservoir. I usually try to be fishing as early as possible but it's not that important because the wind is the important factor (it's important to note that the best bite usually happens at different times on different lakes and I fish accordingly). If the wind is blowing my confidence is high and I move quickly from spot to spot because you never know when the wind will stop. It's a run and gun affair as long as there is a good wind. If it becomes obvious that only a few spots are holding fish I just start rotating through those spots. Now lets say I arrive at the lake and there is little to no wind. My confidence is low but I'm going to give it a go anyway. After about an hour I probably know if it's worth throwing wakebaits or not, and chances are good I've had numbers of followers. More than likely I haven't been bit and its time to make a decision. I can either force the wakebait issue or I can go have fun fishing regular techniques. I usually opt for the latter and almost always go back to the places I had followers or know are holding good fish. This is also an excellent time to go throw the wakebait in new water. I probably won't get bit, but in calm water good fish love to follow wakebaits and if this occurs I now have new spots to fish when conditions are right. Conditions change (usually water level) from year to year and so do the good fishing spots. Searching for new water during less than optimal swimbait conditions allows me to stay on top of the game and continue to be successful. Sometimes it's tough to force yourself to search for new water but it's something that you just have to do no matter how painful it is. So lets say there's little to no wind and I'm dartheading or looking for new water and the wind suddenly comes up. I don't hesitate and will immediately switch back to throwing wakebaits with a run and gun approach. When the wind picks up the wakebait bite can turn on instantaneously. Its one of the few sure things in swimbaiting. As long as the wind is blowing I'm running hard and fishing hard because you just never know when that wind is going to die back. Night Fishing Fishing wakebaits at night is probably my favorite way to fish these baits. Everything I've described above also applies to night fishing, there really aren't that many differences. My experience has shown that the best night bite occurs when the weather turns unbearably hot and stays that way for several days or more. Once again, wind is key. Also, I prefer fishing during the new moon and try real hard never to fish during the full moon. However, the best time to go fishing is always whenever you have a chance. Final Thoughts Fishing wakebaits in my opinion is the most enjoyable style of swimbaiting. It's easy, it produces big fish and it's a thrill to watch bass smash the baits on the surface. However, you have to be persistent and stick to your game plan. Buy the right bait, persist through the slow periods, have a positive attitude and don't be afraid to experiment and I guarantee you will be successful.
An 11 pounder caught on a hot June night on a 316 Wake Jr.
BBZ 20 years in 20 minutes By Bill Siemantel creator of the BBZ-1 and Big Bass Expert This Article was originally published in Bass Anglers Guide, but used with permission of Bill Siemantel
You would think that this would be a quantum leap in fishing. Can you honestly say that you can give someone 20 years of fishing knowledge in just one article? Most people would say no. I, on the other hand would say that I can save you 20 years of the trail and errors that I have ran into out on the water. And that in its self would stop most people in their tracks. This is going to be one of those in your face type of articles that most fishermen do not want to hear. Why, because most of them are the same group of guys that are not willing to take it to the next level anyways. The sad thing is, “ IT'S NOT THAT HARD”. Yes, I just said that, catching bigger fish is not that big of deal. With the right information and a new way of looking at things the heavyweights are sure to follow, if you are willing to take that next step. What has been happening for way to long is that the so-called bass pros have been preaching to you that the only way to start to catch bigger fish is to step up the size of your bait. You want to catch a big fish? up-size your spinner bait from a 3/8 oz to ¾ oz , stop playing with those ½ jig and start firing out those 1 ton football heads, you want a big crank bait fish, tie on that DD22, bla,bla,bla. If you really think that's the case, then why is it that the number of fish over 10 pounds rarely ever find themselves in your live well, heck, how about just having one on for a moment on the end of your line. The great Rick Clunn a few years back said that he was going to target big fish in all the tournaments that he fished with big baits. I for one was thinking now this is going to be good, Rick is by far one of the greatest tournament fishermen that I have even had the pleasure meeting. But guess what, at the end of the year and ending his streak of Bassmaster Classic berths. I read an article that Rick wrote on how he went after those big bass and what he considered big baits. Long story short, Rick didn't get it either, and now he is back to his standard tournament tactics. Now don't get your panties in a bunch on that statement, “it is what it is”. Rick has proven himself as one of the Elite tournament anglers on catching limit style fish , but targeting bigger fish with big baits constantly in a tournament format is another issue. Can it be done? I think that answer is clear----------it already has. So what's gone wrong with the general population of fishermen? no one wants to work for anything. They want you to make them a treasure map with an “X” marked on it, hand them a lure, and show them were to throw. Even on the tournament side, I have heard and seen some of the Pro's say this “ if I can't find any fish I will fish the fishermen ( because they are doing well in the tournament ), or if there is that many boats over there, it's gotta have fish” I on the other hand did the 20 years of trial and error with the big baits, not only in building them, but understanding how each one of them work in water and the reaction they had on the fish I was targeting. Finding fish on your own is one of the biggest hurdles you will run into, and using and understanding big baits will cut that search down in half. That my friends it what it is really all about. So, the question to you is; have you really tried to understand what your lures do under the water? If you think that's a dumb question, then think of this. How many of you have sat down and picked up a tool (lure) and flat out knew what that thing does when it's in the water. Better yet, what that lure does when it comes into contact with any type of cover or structure? Example, do you work your lure (say a jig) across the bottom, or are you creating the illusion of realism by making the bass think it accomplishing its goal by pushing that crawdad along the bottom. Then when it funnels it up against that rock, do you work on that illusion a little bit more by slack line popping your jig so the pork start to come up in the air so the bass thinks the crawdad is trying to defend itself? And finally when that bass crushes that crawdad, do you understand that you did not trick that bass into hitting your jig, but you lead him to believe he was doing what he always does. Now, replace that jig with every big bait or swimbaits on the market these days. To help you understand the difference between these lures, here is a quick base line. “Big Baits” are lures over 8 inches long (8” Tiger Tubes, BBZ-1, Hudds, Optimums, Rago's, Wood Plugs, ECT.). Do not place these baits in the category of the 3” to 7” swimbaits that are no more than a jig with a boot tail. If you do, you don't get it! You just found yourself standing dead center in that rut with everyone else that does not know how to properly place their tools in the right category. The moment you do not understand how to categorize your tools, then talking about location or techniques is a waste of time. When you are ready to step out of that rut and start rethinking everything you have been doing, then this is the moment that you can look at any tool, every technique, and all bodies of water and start to eliminate a lot of the guess work. Am I not saying that I do not have tough days out on the water, shoot, just like most of you I have sat there in my boat racking my brain on what the hell am I doing wrong?. However, it's easy to just give up and fall right back into those old habits. How many of you have said; I'll just drop shot and catch a few small fish before I go home, or maybe I should I crank the rest of the day, damn- the wife has been buggy me about mowing that lawn. The bottom line is that when I started to get the bug on catching bigger fish with my father, I was a goofy eight year old that never stopped trying to figure out those big bass. We would either fish out of our small 14 foot Valco on the weekends, or he would drop me off at Castaic Lake before he had to go into work at 5 am on days I had off from school to fish the shoreline. Can you believe how times have truly changed, I would have to have a few loose screws in my head to take my child down to Castaic Lake and drop them off for the day while I went to work in today's society. I would be trading fishing rods for a so-called pack of cigs in my not so cool 8x10 cell block before the end of the day for child neglect. But, if you put yourself in the right mindset and remember all the experiences you have had on the water, the good times and the bad times then you just stepped into the BBZ . The times I spent on the water as a kid finding spots over 25 years ago, and thinking then that I had nothing to show for that day on the water are the same spots I fish today. Yes, back then I would of done cartwheels if I even hooked a 8 pound bass, but the number of 10 plus pound fish now that I have caught there reaffirms the old adage that time on the water is worth its weight in gold (or bass) if you put yourself in a position to keep learning. Oh ya, the fishermen that are more consistent are the ones that are better at remembering where that gold lies (spot -on- spots). Now where do you start to look for bigger fish? “Location, Location, Location”. I spent 25 years on the water trying to find good spots, all you have to do now-a-days is get on “ Google Earth ”, or find yourself a “ Navionics ” chip for your Lowrance unit. That alone with eliminate years of searching for great areas, then it just boils down to you finding those key little gold mines. Next, let's talk about lures, are there any perfect lures? Maybe. There are some very good tools out there that with the right combination of proven techniques are hard to beat day in and day out. The key for you is to find those lures that are capable of doing as many techniques as possible. Should you use a ½ in box wrench, or pick up that adjustable crescent wrench? This could be a trick question, that ½ in box wrench might be the perfect tool for the job, today . The problem here lies in the fact that very few people have ever spent the time using big baits and understanding them in all aspects. What do these lures do when you slow roll them across the bottom, do they act the same if you dead stick them on the surface, and how do directional changes influence the action of these lures up against cover or structure, like rocks or brush. One of the simplest questions to answer about any lure is if it is mechanical (a crank bait that uses it bill to impart action) or manual (a spook that walks the dog from your actions) motion bait? That question alone will separate 80% of the fishermen out on the water, why? Because it makes a difference in understanding that an 8” Tiger Tube is a manual motion lure, and a DD22 is a mechanical motion lure. But if you think it's that simple, then you would say that a Fluke is manual bait vs. a Rip Bait that is mechanical bait, the real answer to all lures are, that any lure has the capability to accomplish both disciplines if the angler behind the rod has taken the time to do his homework. Here's where you should ask yourself if this really matters? “ Yes It Matters” . So here is the deal with Big Baits, let me rephrase that, with all lures. Everything Works !!! Yes they all work, the only difference is that the guy that understands the techniques and then knows how to pick out the right tools are the ones that other fishermen pop off and say “ that guy has gills, man he is in a different league, I wish I can do what he does” well you can. Stop over thinking this big bait thing . If you are one of those guys that can say, I am a master of the Carolina rig, or hand me spinner bait and I can pull a rabbit out of my hat, to the crazy guy that fishes top water years around, then you are going to be a great big bait fisherman. Why? Because each one of those disciplines have 3 elements that are basic (location, tools, and techniques). This means if you are the C-rig man, then dragging a swimbait along a 25' deep road bed is the same thing (it's just a different tool), for the Spinnerbait magician, hand him an 8” tube or a slow sinking BBZ-1 swimbait around buck brush and watch out. For the Super Spook fanatic, his head will spin out of control when he finally picks up the top water big bait and sees what he can do over those long tapering points with them, why? Because it's just another tool for that proven technique he already knows. “Strangely enough, someone who is just getting started in bass fishing may have a better chance of utilizing this information than the veteran angler. Without preconceived notions and ingrained ways of doing things, a new comer could easily be the one who excels. So it is not ability---or the lack of it---that holds anyone back. It is simply an unswerving devotion to the cause of catching big bass.”
“Keep it in the BBZ”
Bill Siemantel Bill Siemantel's Sponsors
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DE- Mystifying Swimbait Fishing Taken From Basswest Magazine January/February I smiled. Finally, the “ripping master” would dispel the myth that you need to throw swimbaits to win an event. Gary would go out with his Lucky Craft 128s (a 5 inch, 1 oz. rip bait) and show these swimbait guys that you could still do it with traditional “big baits.” I must have looked like a kid who'd just been told the Easter Bunny was dead when I heard Gary tell Kent that he just hoped to finish in the top 5 because this swimbait craze was certainly starting to be the go-to in many events. He almost conceded that his approach, at least for that event, could not compete with the Trout soft plastic swimbait. The Easter Bunny is dead. Gary made a point from that day forward to learn to throw swimbaits. He makes his living fishing and he knew he needed to be on top of this new technique. Well, he learned them, indeed. Not only is his garage littered with what might be over 100 8 inch trout swinbaits, but he designed a rod with the express purpose of fishing the big swimbait all day long when he came out with his new rod company in January of 2007. From that day forward, I researched swimbaits and swimbait fishing in a quest to bring this eccentric style of fishing down to the commoner's (my) level. I didn't want to be intimidated by the Paul Bunyan setups anymore. I too, wanted to chuck massive hunks of rubber into a lake and catch 8+ pound fish. It took me the better part of two years, but I'm there. In this article I detail how I do it. I'm not saying my approach is the only or even the best approach, but I can tell you that it absolutely works. I would not even consider myself an accomplished or particularly skilled swimbait fisherman. But perhaps that is why I may be the best person to tell the story of how I overcame my fear and developed confidence in hurling the bait that killed the Easter Bunny. As far as physical limitations go, there is not much I can tell you. Yes, it does help to be younger, healthier and stronger because you are going to be tossing large, heavy baits on big gear with this approach. However, I have absolutely, unequivocally learned that the proper gear makes a massive difference in this world. I used to try and toss an 8 inch swimbait on a flipping stick that was not stout enough with a reel that did not have enough line capacity. It was Hell. It was tantamount to trying to eat your favorite t-bone steak with a huge serving of beans on a flimsy one-layer paper plate on your lap. It just doesn't work. You don't enjoy the experience nearly as much and eventually you get frustrated and grab the damned t-bone with your hand and eat it like a large slab of beef jerky. That is what I wanted to do with my swimbait. I wanted to grab it with my hand and wing it into the lake like a football. Your swimbait rod needs to load-up and be designed to actually throw the bait you are fishing. Don't think you can just use your old trusty favorite flipping stick. You will end up hating the experience and your equipment shortcoming will cause a mental barrier. Spend the $100 to $200 and buy a rod made for throwing the baits you want to wield. I use the Dobyns 806 (that is an 8-foot, 6-power rod). Gary designed this rod with the 8 inch Trout soft plastic swimbait in mind. There are other good swimbait rods out there but I do suggest you find a friend or at least go to a dealer that will let you demonstrate their effectiveness. They don't all throw the bait equally well. The rod is, by far, the most important single piece of equipment in swimbait fishing. A poorly designed rod will wear you out and you will want to start pawing that t-bone angrily, so to speak. Reels and line are also important, but there is more flexibility in these categories. Most folks like to throw their big swimbaits on 25 pound fluorocarbon or monofilament. Some folks like to throw braid. Others will tell you they don't like the fact that braid doesn't stretch for this application. I've experimented with all of the combinations and I like to use 20-pound McCoy line. McCoy is a hybrid style of line that most closely resembles a monofilament. It is outrageously strong and limber. If there is a complaint about McCoy, I hear guys saying that it “has too much stretch.” It does have a healthy degree of stretch in it, but frankly, for rip baits, crankbaits, and swimbaits I like that degree of stretch. I want that cushioning effect to keep from tearing the hooks out of the fish's mouth. And once you get up to 20-pound line, there really is not a whole lot of stretch unless you are catching fish over 20 pounds. With respect to reels, you need a larger line capacity than the ordinary low-profile baitcasters most of us use for other applications. Generally, that means you will go to the larger circle-style reels like a Quantum Cabo, Shimano Calcutta 400, Diawa Luna 300 or the new Shimano Curado 300 (a lower profile baitcaster designed for swimbaits). If you are on a budget the Abu Garcia Ambassador reels also work just fine for less than $80. I tried putting my 20-pound McCoy on a Diawa Zillion and it just did not work. I could actually cast all of my line off in one long cast with that Dobyns Rod. There simply is not enough space for all of the line you will need. Lastly, I prefer a 5 to 1 gear ratio for two reasons. One, it forces me to slow down and I (along with most anglers) have a tendency to fish swimbaits too fast. And two, it provides more winching power than a faster speed reel when you are reeling in your bait or a huge bass. It makes a difference and makes it easier to fish that large bait for more hours during the day. Again, anglers will differ on this issue, but for deep diving crankbaits and big swimbaits I really do prefer the comfort of a slower speed reel. Your own mind, however, operates as the greatest impediment to swimbait fishing. That talk of throwing it “all day” just haunted me as I thought about dabbling with the oversized lures. What if I didn't want to throw it all day (and I didn't). How could I incorporate it into a more ordinary style of fishing and slowly build confidence and success? Begin by selecting one or two of your favorite swimbaits and rigging them up. If you only have one swimbait rod, then you'll only have one rigged, but I like to use two. I'll often rig up a fast sinking 8 inch soft plastic swimbait and an 8-inch or 12-inch Triple Trout (hard bodied three piece swimbait). You are going to make 3 casts per point with that bait. You will alternate points. On the first point, for example, I'll make 3 casts with the 8 inch soft plastic swimbait and then on the 2nd point I'll make 3 casts with the Triple Trout. The third point brings me back to the Hudd and so on. Next, I'll have my two favorite large (non swimbait) reaction baits tied on. For example, I might have a deep-diving crankbait, spinnerbait, large rip bait or a big (3/4 oz. or 1 oz.) tied on. You could also toss a “small” swimbait in this category like a Money Minnow or a Basstrix Paddletail. Now you have 4 rods on the deck. Lastly you may pick just one finesse bait and tie it on. This will be your 5th rod on the deck. It might be a darthead worm, tube, or smaller jig. You are only going to make one cast per point with this rod. My goal in approaching each point (or rock pile, boulder or ridge) is to make 3 casts with the swimbait, 2 casts with a large reaction bait and then one last cast with a finesse bait. Approach each point from the downwind side such that the nose of your boat is facing into the breeze. If the breeze is blowing directly onto the point squarely, then it will not matter as much which side you approach from. I want to stay as far off of the point as I can with my boat in 15 to 20 feet of water. You need to be able to throw your swimbait over (not on) the point. If you plop your blob of rubber right on the top of the point you greatly reduce your chance of getting bit. Kill the big motor far from your point (at least 75 yards) and troll over to the side of the point. Keep your trolling motor on a low setting. You are stalking the biggest and smartest fish with this approach and you do not need extra noise alerting them to your arrival. I would turn off all sonar units too, unless you absolutely need one to tell you how deep you are (you shouldn't, though, as you should be pretty close to shore and able to eyeball about how deep you are). On my first point, I'll pick up my 8 inch Trout soft plastic swimbait and cast it into about 30 feet of water as far across the ridge of the point as I can. I will then let it sink down to the bottom or near the bottom and begin reeling very slowly. I want that bait to just barely swim and if it is sinking while it is swimming that is great. In fact, ideally, you want that bait to slowly and lazily swim right into that point and gently bump it as you drag it over the ridge of the point. Yes, this is an expensive bait and you don't want to lose it. I realize many of you are thinking that you don't want that bait anywhere near the bottom, but remember, you are using 20 to 25 pound line. If you get hung up, give the bait some slack and troll over to the other side of the bait. Nine out of ten times you will pop it free if you pull from the opposite side that you cast from. At that juncture you must also move to the next point as you will have ruined that one ? but that is okay, it is just part of what happens. The second cast will be the same except it will be into 20 feet instead of 30 feet. And the third cast is the same again but into 10 feet of water. So, I will have effectively made three fanning casts over the point while holding my boat in one position. All of my casts have been with one swimbait. Incidentally, on the second point my casts will start and 10 feet and then go to 20 feet and finally to 30 feet. I'll keep experimenting back and forth from deep to shallow and then shallow to deep to see which method works better on that day. At this juncture the true swimbait junkies fire up the big motor and run to the next point. I'm not quite that addicted yet. I've just taken the time to put myself in the perfect position on a point and all that I've established is that the big ones aren't ready to eat my swimmer yet. But how do I know I can't catch a good fish on a different application? Cast numbers 4 and 5 are with my favorite large reaction bait. For me that is probably a Lucky Craft Staycee 90. I get two casts with that bait. I'll throw one into 20 feet and one in to 10 feet over the point just as I did with the swimbait. Again, on the next point I might switch to a crankbait or spinnerbait. The idea is to have two of your favorites on the deck an switch back and forth between them from point to point until the fish reveal to you which one they prefer that day. If you run 15 points and don't get bit on either of them, then pull out two different ones and try those for 10 to 15 points. But only keep two on the deck. My sixth cast concludes my time on the point. That cast will be with a small jig, tube or darthead. At heart, I'm still just a kid and I still do just want to catch some fish. I feel that these baits give me the best chances. Otherwise, I'd leave that point and in the back of my mind there would be a little devil and that devil would say to me, “You are an idiot. There was a 3.5 pounder sitting on that point in 20 feet of water and all he really wanted was one slow moving tube. If you'd shown him that, he would have eaten.” So, I must indulge myself and allow just one cast with a “wimpy” bait! How many points you hit in a day will depend on how far you want to take this. You will need to hit a minimum of 25 points to really give this technique a fair shake. I'd suggest you aim for 30 to 60 points. I have never run more than 55 in a day. That is a lot. I've heard of guys who say they have run 100 or more. Wow. More power to them. That is a lot of up and down and movement. You will also run into guys that may only make 2 or 3 casts per point and may never put the swimbait down at all. Again, those folks are bitten so badly by the bug that they don't need a system like this to stay interested. My approach is designed to break up the monotony of only throwing big baits, mix in other approaches and still feel like you are maximizing fish catching opportunities. With the 3, 2, 1 approach you are making 6 casts per point and covering different depths with different baits and targeting fish with different levels of aggression at that moment. Yet, the focus is still on big baits (especially swimbaits) and catching larger fish and covering more water. The approach, in my opinion, works best when fishing alone, but certainly can be done with two people. I then run a 4, 2, 2 with each guy making 2, 1, and 1 casts. One last thing to keep in mind before doing this is to make sure you have a good quality cranking battery in your boat and you are fully charged. If you are going to run 30 to 60 points in this style you are not only going to put yourself to the test and get a nice workout in the process, but you may also find that your cranking battery is not up to that many starts in a day. (You may want to see “Power Up” on page 30 of the Nov/Dec. 2007 BassWest to learn more about the kind of cranking power you may need for this many starts in a day). So what happened the very first time I put my system to the test in the field? I stuck a 7-pound largemouth on cast 2 of point 9 on Lake Berryessa. And I was absolutely hammered again on cast 3 of point 22 but failed to hook up. Special Thanks: Frankly, I could not have written this article without help from the following anglers that contributed to my research on this topic in the form of books, interviews, seminars, and personal time on the water ? Gary Dobyns, John Gray, Aaron Martens, Bill Siemental and his book the Big Bass Zone, Chad Martin, Phil Clark, Ryan White, Mike Tobey, Kent Brown, & Russ Graves. Craig Gottwals is sponsored by: Dobyns Rod Company, Galaxie Marine, McCoy Fishing Line, Basscat Boats, Liberty Benefit Insurance Services, Melissa Messer of Liberty Mutual, Health Net, Auburn Nissan, Costa Del Mar, United Healthcare, CIGNA & United Concordia.
Hunting Giant Bass Swimbaits in Pursuit by Mark Meddock
Bass Fisherman from all over the world are seeking knowledge about how they to can catch giant bass. The key is to stop thinking about catching fish and start thinking about How, Why and Where giant bass feed. Big Bass do not waste energy chasing down smaller meals. Big bass are opportunistic feeders and would rather ambush their prey then to try and chase it down 90 percent of the time.
Mattlures Bluegill during The Spawn by John Kerr
When fishing for spawning bass there are several techniques that will catch you fish. When you are looking right at the fish you have the opportunity to see how it will react to your offering and then choose the best bait and movement of the bait in order to agitate the fish into striking. During my experiences I have found one bait to be especially great at catching the larger females, and that's mattlures bluegill bait. I throw the bluegill with a 7'6 light swimbait rod from Graphite USA, but the bait is light enough that a flipping stick or heavy jig rod could also handle it and I'm primarily throwing it on 20lb fluorocarbon. The question most frequently asked about the bait is whether or not a stinger hook is necessary, and for what I've found any fish that I want eating the it will really inhale the lure. Any added hooks are usually only hurting your success with the bait and not intended to be fished that way. My first impression of the bait was pure astonishment with how life-like it was. If you take a bluegill and hold it up right next to his bait you really can see how well the bait matches a natural pan fish, and the attention to detail is second to none. Swimbait fisherman know realism is key, and a natural looking bait gives you an advantage. The second thing you notice about the bait is how it sits in the water. When the bait is left alone it will sit with its nose on the bottom and the rest of the bait will remain sitting straight up. When the bass are spawning their number one enemy is a bluegill, and the bait simulates bluegill messing with the bass' spawning bed. I tend to find deadsticking the bait to draw the most strikes from the females. With the new ultimate bluegill you will find that the longer you let the bait sit with the fins flared out the more upset the female will get. Even is you are unable to see her, she is absolutely aware that the bed is under attack. Sometimes you may need to place the bait on the bed and move your boat away, and again let it sit. Be very patient with the fish, and let the bait do the work. When I'm fishing the bait this time of year the obvious use is for sight fishing, but I've found the bait to also be very successful blind casting for beds in deeper water. The longer casts give you an opportunity to place the bait on many beds without spooking the fish. The best way to do this is make a longer cast where you would think a bed would be located then let the bait sit nose down. As you retrieve the bait make sure and let it pause many times in order to optimize the amount of fish seeing the bait. Many times you will be able to put the bait on several beds and increase your shot of catching the big female. When it comes down to it the mattlures bluegill is such a good bait because it's right at the size where the small males aren't able to get it, but 4-5lb fish are able to easily eat the bait. I've caught fish over 10lbs with the bait, but primarily the reason its one of my go to baits is because of its ability to put tournament winning fish in the boat. Two of my largest tournament limits have come in spring using this bait and I expect to have many more. |
